1) Shut off fuel.

2) Remove spark plug caps from the left side spark plugs (#2 - #4) and carefully remove the wires from the carb stay clips on both sides.

3) Loosen choke cable from the choke bracket just behind #3 carb intake.

4) Remove the false tank completely. With assistance, you may be able to remove the entire assembly without removing the individual cover sections.
NOTE: There are five fasteners that secure the shell frame to the motorcycle. Two each side and one top front.
Be sure to disconnect the overflow hose from the neck of the radiator before removing the false tank assembly, also remove the fuel drain hose from the shelter frame.

5) Remove the air filter cover, air filter and filter box completely from the carbs.
NOTE: Be sure to remove hoses from the filter box.

6) Remove the cap, spring and diaphragm only from the air "cut off" valve located on the top front of the carb rack.

7) Remove the choke cable and the throttle cables from the carburetor control rotor unit.

8) Remove the screws only from the #1 and #3 (right side) vacuum caps.

9) Remove the 8 bolts and washers that hold the carb intakes to the cylinder heads.

10) Remove the carb fuel line from the pump only (be careful not to injure the fuel pump line nipple).
11) Using a magic marker, mark the number 1 and number 3 on the respective carb caps.

12) Remove the right side chrome carb stay brace.
NOTE: This step is unnecessary if the brace does not have the cuff guard to the rear.
13) Lift the carb set and move it out towards the #2 - #4 side of the engine until the #1 - #3 carb caps can be removed. Leave springs and pistons on their respective  carb bodies.

14) After the caps are removed the set can be maneuvered out of the frame. Be  careful that the #2 & #4 plug wires do not snag as the set is removed.

15) Set the carb unit over a suitable fuel catch pan and carefully remove the float bowl drain plugs to drain the fuel.
NOTE: If the drain plugs will not easily come out, remove all vacuum caps, springs and pistons from the set follow step 15a.
15a) Invert whole carburetor set over the catch pan to drain the fuel.

16) Replace the drain plugs, vacuum pistons, springs and vacuum caps in their proper positions. Reinstall the air cut cap and reattach the intakes.
NOTE: Before packaging remove the intake seal.
17) Be sure that all screws are snug and the set is dry of fuel. Wrap the set in several layers of bubble wrap and package them carefully into a suitable carton to prevent shipping damage. The carton should be large enough to allow the set to fit inside but as small as possible so the set does not move during shipment to us.
NOTE: It will be helpful if the carb set is placed inside a plastic bag or similar to prevent shipping material from entering the porting. Please do not ship the set using "popcorn foam" without over wrapping the set completely.
19) Ship them to us using a suitable carrier such as USPS, UPS, FedEx Gnd, etc.

1) Shut off fuel and open the fuel fill door of the shelter. Remove the tool tray and the fuel filler cap.

WARNING: Gasoline is very flammable! Please exercise due caution when the potential exists for spillage or exposure of ignition sources near fuel vapor.

2) Remove spark plug caps from the left side spark plugs (#2 - #4) and carefully remove the wires from the carb stay clips on both sides.

3) Loosen choke cable from the choke bracket just behind #3 carb intake.
4) If possible, remove the choke cable bracket from the carburetor set. NOTE: This may be difficult as the screw is located on the carburetor plenum and will require a long shank #2 heavy duty phillips screw driver.
5) Remove the left and right lower fairing pieces by extracting the three attaching screws and collars from each one. NOTE: Be sure not to lose the collars to avoid crushing the plastic at assembly.
6) Disconnect the wire harness at the plastic connector located on the left/inside of the main fairing.
7) Remove the two front fastener nuts and washers completely from the fairing that attach it to the mount bracket.
8) Loosen the two remaining fastener nuts and washers but do not remove them until the front of the fairing is supported by a helper. NOTE: The fairing is front heavy and may move downward without warning.
9) With help, carefully lift slightly and remove the fairing towards the front of the bike.
10) Remove both of the sheet metal heat shrouds from the rear of each side of the fairing mount by removing the three screws from each one.
11) Remove the seat and remove both chrome carburetor stay brackets.
12) Remove the fasteners (usually 4) from the false fuel tank and carefully remove it. With assistance, you should be able to spread it slightly and lift it off from the components below.
13) Detach the air box components, remove the filter and remove the air box from the carburetor plenum. Remove the air chamber seal from the plenum.
14) Remove the screws and washers only from the # 1 and # 3 vacuum caps. Magic mark the caps with their position number. #1 is front right, #3 is rear right.

15) Remove the 8 bolts and washers that hold the carb intakes to the cylinder heads.

16) Remove the carb fuel line from the pump only (be careful not to injure the fuel pump line nipple) and remove the throttle cables as well as the choke cable. Lay the cable ends out of the way for removal of the carb set.
17) In some cases it may be necessary to loosen the four fasteners that hold the radiator to the frame. This must be enough (about 10 mm) so that the plenum chamber of the carb set can be removed past the fan motor.
18) Lift the carb set slightly and move it out towards the #2 - #4 side of the engine until the # 1 and # 3 carb caps can be removed. You may leave springs and pistons on their respective  carb bodies.

19) After the caps are removed the set can be maneuvered out of the left side of the frame. Be  careful that the #2 & #4 plug wires do not snag as the set is removed. NOTE: Recheck the choke bracket for easy removal of the set.

20) Set the carb unit over a suitable fuel catch pan and carefully remove the float bowl drain plugs to drain the fuel.
NOTE: If the drain plugs will not easily come out, magic mark the remaining vacuum pistons while in their respective carb positions and remove them and all four of the springs and pistons.
21) Invert whole carburetor set over the catch pan to drain the fuel.

WARNING: Gasoline is very flammable! Please exercise due caution when the potential exists for spillage or exposure of ignition sources near fuel vapor.

22) Replace the drain plugs loosely, vacuum pistons, springs and vacuum caps in their proper positions and snug the screws.
NOTE: The carb set should be as pictured above (but without the carb stays and air box seal) before packaging.
23) Be sure that all screws are snug and the set is dry of fuel. Wrap the set in several layers of bubble wrap and package them carefully into a suitable carton to prevent shipping damage. The set should not move inside of the final package when ready for shipment.
NOTE: It will be helpful if the carb set is placed inside a plastic bag or similar to prevent shipping material from entering the porting. Please do not ship the set using "popcorn foam" without over wrapping the set completely.
24) Ship them to us using a suitable carrier such as USPS, UPS, FedEx Gnd, etc.

 

Stainless Steel Caliper Pistons

Pistol Pete regrets that the caliper pistons are no longer available.

We apologize for any inconvenience.

 

Caliper piston removal.

 

1. Loosen all fasteners that join the caliper body halves together and as well as the brake line fitting terminating at the caliper body. All should be loose just enough to ease removal later at disassembly but not enough to leak fluid.
2. If accessible, remove all parts that hold the inspection cover and/or pad support fasteners.
3. Remove the caliper body from the motorcycle with the hose attached. This may require the wheel assembly to be removed.
4. Remove the brake pads, piston boots and clips.
5. Open the master cylinder reservoir and top up the fluid using the proper type.
6. If the caliper body has more than one piston, clamp all but one piston in its current position using a small "C" clamp(s) or suitable.
7. Depress or squeeze the brake lever until the un-clamped piston moves out about ¼ inch. Then change positions with the "C" clamp on each piston until all have been pushed out about ¼ inch . Note: Check fluid to prevent a dry reservoir and ingesting air into the lines.
8. Repeat the clamp/un-clamp procedure until each piston is near the stroke limit, it should begin leaking some fluid around the piston seal(s).
9. Repeat steps 1) thru 8) for each caliper assembly to be serviced and before you follow step 10).
10. Remove the caliper body from the hose (Protect surfaces from brake fluid spills) and suspend the hoses as high as possible to prevent fluid spillage. Separate caliper halves by removing previous fasteners that were loosened.
11. The pistons should be easily twisted from their bores using suitable means. NOTE: Protect work area and surfaces from brake fluid spillage by using a large pan below the parts during the above separation of pistons.
12. Using hot soapy water as a cleaner [will not work with DOT 5], clean any remaining brake fluid from the caliper body parts to prevent destruction of the surface paint. Clean the body parts in preparation for assembly. Pay particular attention to the inside of the piston seal groove. Use 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper to lightly restore the piston bore surface without removing base metal. Wash the caliper body inside and out once again to remove remaining grime and blow it completely dry with 30psi dry compressed air.

Reassemble using good seal components, cleaned piston bores, clean seal grooves and pistons.

NOTE: Do not use any lubricants other than the brake fluid to coat parts during installation of pistons. All rubber parts should be cleaned before installation.

DOT 5 brake fluid will attack silicone rubber parts.

Never mix DOT 5 fluid with any other fluid.

 

 

Restoration page has been moved.

Click here for the page

 

 

Gauge Restoration

Pistol Pete's will soon re-offer gauge rebuilding services for the GL1000. Please check back another time,

NEW Pistol Pete's Honda CBX1000 Gauge Restorative Service.

Pistol Pete's new service for CBX1000 gauges include rebuilding, restoring faces, repairing slow needles, replacing needles, cleaning, lubricating, resetting odometers (if allowed in your state) and calibration for correct rpm and mph.

We can also include a new face plate that will be very visible at night. The CBX gauges have always been less that perfect for night riding especially after aging somewhat. Our new faceplates are near perfect duplications of the OEM faces but the tick marks and numbers will be very visible when riding at night.

In addition we are pleased to offer 1980-1982; 80mph speedometer conversions to 150 mph and it will include the illuminated faceplates above. This service is now available.

 

 

Here is what we offer:

1) Basic Rebuild includes the following:

Check the calibration, professionally open the gauge, inspect and clean the entire instrument (additional effort on the odometers will be done on the Speedo), repair slow armature, lubricate, reapply anti fog agent to the inside of the lens and professionally close the gauge.

2) Series 2 Rebuild includes the following;

Basic Rebuild above plus replacement of the old faded faceplate with a new one of the same style as the supplied gauge (the customer will have the option of replacing the 10k Tach face plate with an 11k faceplate at no additional cost) and re-calibrate back to the supplied gauge. NOTE: If there is a discrepancy of the reading of the gauges as supplied and correct reading when the calibration is checked in the Basic, we will let the owner know if more than + - 2 mph or 200 rpm.

3) Series 3 Rebuild will include the following:

All of Basic, Series 2 (above) and conversion of the 80 mph Speedometer to 150 mph with the correct face plate. If the Tach is sent along with the Speedo it will get the 11k Tach face at the Series 2 Price below

PRICING

Pricing on all CBX Gauge Rebuilds*

BASIC: Speedometer $80.00 - Tachometer $70.00.
Series 2: Speedometer $140.00 - Tachometer $130.00 (may be 10k or 11k face)
Series 3: Conversion of 80 to 150 mph Speedometer $195.00. See Series 2 above for the Tach inclusion.

Inquire about price savings for multiple gauge rebuilds with discounts on return shipping. ICOA and all CBX forums can receive a 5% discount. Just let us know what forum and your screen name.

Email me if I can provide this service for you.

petesgl@comcast.net

 

 

Gauge removal instructions.

Coming soon.

Instructions for GL1000 and CBX gauges.

Appraisals of your GL1000

Pistol Pete can appraise your GL1000 Goldwing but we will need to see it first.

Email me if I can provide this service for you.

petesgl@comcast.net