Carburetor Cleaning and Repairs

Pistol Pete offers expert cleaning and repair services for your GL1000 and GL1100 carburetors. We have rebuilt nearly 200 Goldwing carburetor sets and we maintain a stock of parts just in case your set requires any replacement item. Our customers can expect to receive a perfectly rebuilt carburetor set that is as good as or better than OEM new from the factory.

Why pay more and get less than the best rebuild possible? Most "Experts" and Honda Dealerships (if you can find one who will rebuild them) will charge as much as $700.00. Here at Pistol Pete's Services, we are not satisfied with second best and the carb set will not leave our shop unless it is a perfectly rebuilt set. Pistol Pete's turn around time is usually less than 3 business days and never more than 5 business days. We feel that no one who offers GL1000 or GL1100 carburetor rebuilding is able to match our expertise.

 

Pricing Effective April 01, 2008

*Priced at $365.00 for the 75 thru 79 GL1000 carburetor set.

The Off Idle fix for the 75, 76 & 77 is $10.00 for the the entire carb set (A regular $40.00 value)
The 77 Jet Needle Fix is $10.00 for the entire carb set (A regular $30.00 value)

*Priced at $425.00 for the 80 thru 83 GL1100 carburetor set.

*Prices are based on the time to clean a moderately dirty set, clean and clear all porting and jetting, installation of Randakk's component parts (as required), installation of 5 new vacuum hoses (75-79), 1 new fuel hose, Pistol Pete's proprietary modification for smooth idling, complete reassembly, engine synchronizing/balancing to 1/2" hg and installation instructions.


*Note: Prices do not include additional scrub cleaning of caked on grime, additional repair work, additional parts replacement or requested parts, new jetting, other special modifications or polishing and shipping/packaging. Prices subject to change without notice. Technical Notice: Pistol Pete's carburetor service includes synchronizing/balancing to within 1/2" hg. on a test engine that is mechanically and operationally sound and cylinder compression differentials well within OEM service limits. Installation onto your engine may require "touch up" synchronizing for optimal performance.

GL1000

GL1100

 

Carburetor Removal for GL1000

It is relatively easy to remove the carburetors from a GL1000. The steps below will allow the process to be accomplished without potential damage to the carb set or the motorcycle.

WARNING: Gasoline is very flammable! Please exercise due caution when the potential exists for spillage.

NOTE: Each carburetor corresponds to its respective cylinder number. #1 is front right, #2 is front left, #3 is rear right and #4 is rear left. (Viewed while seated and facing to the front)

1) Shut off fuel.
2) Remove spark plug caps from the left side spark plugs (#2 - #4) and carefully remove the wires from the carb stay clips on both sides.
3) Loosen choke cable from the choke bracket just behind #3 carb intake.
4) Remove the false tank completely. With assistance, you may be able to remove the entire assembly without removing the individual cover sections.
NOTE: There are five fasteners that secure the shell frame to the motorcycle. Two each side and one top front.
Be sure to disconnect the overflow hose from the neck of the radiator before removing the false tank assembly, also remove the fuel drain hose from the shelter frame.
5) Remove the air filter cover, air filter and filter box completely from the carbs.
NOTE: Be sure to remove hoses from the filter box.
6) Remove the cap, spring and diaphragm only from the air "cut off" valve located on the top front of the carb rack.
7) Remove the choke cable and the throttle cables from the carburetor control rotor unit.
8) Remove the screws only from the #1 and #3 (right side) vacuum caps.
9) Remove the 8 bolts and washers that hold the carb intakes to the cylinder heads.
10) Remove the carb fuel line from the pump only (be careful not to injure the fuel pump line nipple).
11) Using a magic marker, mark the number 1 and number 3 on the respective carb caps.
12) Remove the right side chrome carb stay brace.
NOTE: This step is un-necessary if the brace does not have the cuff guard to the rear.
13) Lift the carb set and move it out towards the #2 - #4 side of the engine until the #1 - #3 carb caps can be removed. Leave springs and pistons on their respective  carb bodies.
14) After the caps are removed the set can be maneuvered out of the frame. Be  careful that the #2 & #4 plug wires do not snag as the set is removed.
15) Set the carb unit over a suitable fuel catch pan and carefully remove the float bowl drain plugs to drain the fuel.
NOTE: If the drain plugs will not easily come out, magic mark the vacuum pistons of #1, #3, the vacuum caps of #2 and #4 and remove them. Mark the #2 piston as well as the #4 piston and remove them with all of the springs.
16) Invert whole carburetor set over the catch pan to drain the fuel.
17) Replace the drain plugs, vacuum pistons, springs and vacuum caps in their proper positions. Reinstall the air cut cap, spring and diaphragm.
NOTE: The carb set should be as pictured above before packaging.
18) Be sure that all screws are snug and package them carefully into a suitable carton to prevent shipping damage.
NOTE: It will be helpful if the carb set is wrapped in a heavy plastic bag or similar to prevent shipping material from entering the porting.
19) Ship them to us using a suitable carrier such as USPS, UPS, FedEx Gnd, etc.

 

 

Carburetor Removal for GL1100

Removal of the carburetors from the GL1100 is very similar to the GL1000 if removed from the Standard Model. Suggested removal instructions below are for the Interstate and Aspencade Models. If you have a Standard Model, some items listed will be unnecessary.
NOTE: Aftermarket items installed on your GL1100 may impede the removal of the carburetors as suggested below. The person removing them should determine this to facilitate removal.

1) Shut off fuel and open the fuel fill door of the shelter. Remove the tool tray and the fuel filler cap.

WARNING: Gasoline is very flammable! Please exercise due caution when the potential exists for spillage or exposure of ignition sources near fuel vapor.

2) Remove spark plug caps from the left side spark plugs (#2 - #4) and carefully remove the wires from the carb stay clips on both sides.
3) Loosen choke cable from the choke bracket just behind #3 carb intake.
4) If possible, remove the choke cable bracket from the carburetor set. NOTE: This may be difficult as the screw is located on the carburetor plenum and will require a long shank #2 heavy duty phillips screw driver.
5) Remove the left and right lower fairing pieces by extracting the three attaching screws and collars from each one. NOTE: Be sure not to lose the collars to avoid crushing the plastic at assembly.
6) Disconnect the wire harness at the plastic connector located on the left/inside of the main fairing.
7) Remove the two front fastener nuts and washers completely from the fairing that attach it to the mount bracket.
8) Loosen the two remaining fastener nuts and washers but do not remove them until the front of the fairing is supported by a helper. NOTE: The fairing is front heavy and may move downward without warning.
9) With help, carefully lift slightly and remove the fairing towards the front of the bike.
10) Remove both of the sheet metal heat shrouds from the rear of each side of the fairing mount by removing the three screws from each one.
11) Remove the seat and remove both chrome carburetor stay brackets.
12) Remove the fasteners (usually 4) from the false fuel tank and carefully remove it. With assistance, you should be able to spread it slightly and lift it off from the components below.
13) Detach the air box components, remove the filter and remove the air box from the carburetor plenum. Remove the air chamber seal from the plenum.
14) Remove the screws and washers only from the # 1 and # 3 vacuum caps. Magic mark the caps with their position number. #1 is front right, #3 is rear right.
15) Remove the 8 bolts and washers that hold the carb intakes to the cylinder heads.
16) Remove the carb fuel line from the pump only (be careful not to injure the fuel pump line nipple).
17) Loosen the four fasteners that hold the radiator to the frame. This must be enough (about 10 mm) so that the plenum chamber of the carb set can be removed past the fan motor.
18) Lift the carb set slightly and move it out towards the #2 - #4 side of the engine until the # 1 and # 3 carb caps can be removed. Leave springs and pistons on their respective  carb bodies.
19) After the caps are removed the set can be maneuvered out of the frame. Be  careful that the #2 & #4 plug wires do not snag as the set is removed. NOTE: It may be necessary to bend the choke bracket slightly downward to make removal of the set easier. An alternative would be to loosen the plenum screw that holds the choke bracket.
20) Set the carb unit over a suitable fuel catch pan and carefully remove the float bowl drain plugs to drain the fuel.
NOTE: If the drain plugs will not easily come out, magic mark the remaining vacuum pistons while in their respective carb positions and remove them and all four of the springs and pistons.
21) Invert whole carburetor set over the catch pan to drain the fuel.

WARNING: Gasoline is very flammable! Please exercise due caution when the potential exists for spillage or exposure of ignition sources near fuel vapor.

22) Replace the drain plugs, vacuum pistons, springs and vacuum caps in their proper positions.
NOTE: The carb set should be as pictured above before packaging.
23) Be sure that all screws are snug and package them carefully into a suitable carton to prevent shipping damage.
NOTE: It will be helpful if the carb set is wrapped in a heavy plastic bag or similar to prevent shipping material from entering the porting. Please do not ship the set using "pop-corn foam" without over wrapping the set completely.
24) Ship them to us using a suitable carrier such as USPS, UPS, FedEx Gnd, etc.

 

 

Caliper Pistons

Pistol Pete has discontinued offering the caliper pistons because of diminished demand. The process to heat treat the pistons is expensive and this process is no longer competitive in the current market place.

We apologize for any inconvenience.

Pistol Pete is now offering front and rear caliper pistons for your GL1000 75 through 77. Precision machined from stainless steel to a fit tolerance of +.0000 -.0005" O.D.
They are heat treated for a lifetime of use and will never corrode or pit even if your GL sits for an extended period of time.

Now priced at $28.00 US each if you buy a set of four at $112.00

Pistol Pete will pay the freight (2 front and 2 rear). You save 65% over Honda retail. Shipping $5.50 to the continental USA for 1 to 3 pistons at $32.00 USD each. Our preferred method of payment is PayPal and use petesgl@comcast.net to send funds.
Please mention the Piston Set as the item required or you may purchase individual pistons as described above.


Removal of pistons from the caliper

NOTE: This method can be used if the caliper pistons are sticking but the remainder of the system is functional.

  1. Loosen all fasteners that join the caliper body halves together and as well as the brake line fitting terminating at the caliper body. All should be loose just enough to ease removal later at disassembly but not enough to leak fluid.
  2. If accessible, remove all parts that hold the inspection cover and/or pad support fasteners.
  3. Remove the caliper body from the motorcycle with the hose attached. This may require the wheel assembly to be removed.
  4. Remove the brake pads, piston boots and clips.
  5. Open the master cylinder reservoir and top up the fluid using the proper type.
  6. If the caliper body has more than one piston, clamp all but one piston in its current position using a small "C" clamp(s) or suitable.
  7. Depress or squeeze the brake lever until the unclamped piston moves out about ¼”. Then change positions with the "C" clamp on each piston until all have been pushed out about ¼”. Note: Check fluid to prevent a dry reservoir and ingesting air into the lines.
  8. Repeat the clamp/unclamp procedure until each piston is near the stroke limit, it should begin leaking some fluid around the piston seal(s).
  9. Repeat steps 1) thru 8) for each caliper assembly to be serviced and before you follow step 10).
  10. Remove the caliper body from the hose (Protect surfaces from brake fluid spills) and suspend the hoses as high as possible to prevent fluid spillage. Separate caliper halves by removing previous fasteners that were loosened.
  11. The pistons should be easily twisted from their bores using suitable means. NOTE: Protect work area and surfaces from brake fluid spillage by using a large pan below the parts during the above separation of pistons.
  12. Using hot soapy water as a cleaner [will not work with DOT 5], clean any remaining brake fluid from the caliper body parts to prevent destruction of the surface paint. Clean the body parts in preparation for reassembly. Pay particular attention to the inside of the piston seal groove. Use 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper to lightly restore the piston bore surface without removing base metal. Wash the caliper body inside and out once again to remove remaining grime and blow it completely dry with 30psi dry compressed air.

Reassemble using good seal components, cleaned piston bores, clean seal grooves and pistons.

NOTE: Do not use any lubricants other than the brake fluid to coat parts during installation of pistons. All rubber parts should be cleaned before installation.

DOT 5 brake fluid will attack silicone rubber parts.

Never mix DOT 5 fluid with any other fluid.

 

 

Restorations

Because of popular demand, Pistol Pete will begin restoration services for the GL1000. Click here for the current unit and its progress.

Pistol Pete is now offering complete restoration services and with 29 years experience on GL1000 GoldWing's, we can transform your current GL into the masterpiece of your dreams You can supply the Goldwing for restoration or you can chose from one of the many GL's that we have in stock. Our restoration service's include full and complete "frame-off" with all aspects of the GL1000 to be returned to near "Show room" condition. Please visit the restorations page to see pictures of some recent restorations.

 

 

 

 

Appraisal and Repair

We also offer appraisal and repair services for most Honda motorcycles.

 

 

 

Intellectual data used on this site is the sole property of Pistol Pete's Services and must not be used in part or in whole without written permission of Pistol Pete.

Any service procedure indicated above may involve personal risks to person or property. Whether the stated process is used entirely or in part, the individual attempting the process should follow safe work practices including but not limited to, safety glasses, proper apparel, proper tools and knowledge.


 

Thinking about doing the carb rebuild yourself?

The GL1000 and GL1100 carburetors are precision units that require more than an "I can do this" attitude. Click here for 10 reasons to have Pistol Pete's rebuild your set to assure that it will perform as well as or better than OEM.