spread it slightly
and lift it off from the components below.
13) Detach the air
box components, remove the filter and remove the air box from
the carburetor plenum. Remove the air chamber seal from the
plenum.
14) Remove the screws
and washers only from the # 1 and # 3 vacuum
caps.
Magic mark the caps with their position number. #1 is front
right, #3 is rear right.
15)
Remove the 8 bolts and washers that hold the carb intakes to the
cylinder heads.
16)
Remove the carb fuel line from the pump only (be careful not to
injure the fuel pump line nipple).
17) Loosen the four
fasteners that hold the radiator to the frame. This must be
enough (about 10 mm) so that the plenum chamber of the carb set
can be removed past the fan motor.
18) Lift the carb set slightly and move it out towards the #2 - #4 side
of the engine until the # 1 and # 3 carb caps can be removed. Leave
springs and pistons on their respective carb bodies.
19)
After the caps are removed the set can be maneuvered out of the
frame. Be careful that the #2 & #4 plug wires do not
snag as the set is removed. NOTE: It may be necessary to bend
the choke bracket slightly downward to make removal of the set easier.
An alternative would be to loosen the plenum screw that holds
the choke bracket.
20
)
Set the carb unit over a suitable fuel catch pan and carefully
remove the float bowl drain plugs to drain the fuel.
NOTE: If the drain plugs will not easily come out, magic mark
the remaining vacuum pistons while in their respective carb
positions
and remove them and all four of the springs and pistons.
21) Invert whole carburetor set over the catch pan to drain the
fuel.
WARNING: Gasoline is very flammable! Please exercise due
caution when the potential exists for spillage or exposure of
ignition sources near fuel vapor.
22)
Replace the drain plugs, vacuum pistons, springs and vacuum caps in their
proper positions.
NOTE: The carb set should
be as pictured above before packaging.
23) Be sure that all screws are snug, wrap the set in several layers of bubble wrap and package them carefully into a
suitable carton to prevent shipping damage.
NOTE: It
will be helpful if the carb set is placed inside a plastic
bag or similar to prevent shipping material from entering the
porting. Please do not ship the set using "pop-corn foam"
without over wrapping the set completely.
24) Ship them to us using a suitable carrier such as USPS, UPS,
FedEx Gnd, etc.
Caliper Pistons
Pistol Pete has
discontinued offering the caliper pistons because of diminished
demand. The process to heat treat the pistons is expensive and
this process is no longer competitive in the current market
place.
We apologize for any
inconvenience.

Removal of pistons from the caliper
NOTE: This method can be used if the caliper pistons are sticking but the
remainder of the system is functional.
- Loosen all fasteners that join the caliper body halves together and as
well as the brake line fitting terminating at the caliper body. All should be loose just
enough to ease removal later at disassembly but not enough to leak fluid.
- If accessible, remove all parts that hold the inspection cover and/or
pad support fasteners.
- Remove the caliper body from the motorcycle with the hose attached. This
may require the wheel assembly to be removed.
- Remove the brake pads, piston boots and clips.
- Open the master cylinder reservoir and top up the fluid using the proper
type.
- If the caliper body has more than one piston, clamp all but one piston in
its current position using a small "C" clamp(s) or suitable.
- Depress or squeeze the brake lever until the unclamped piston moves out
about ¼”. Then change positions with the "C" clamp on each piston until
all have been pushed out about ¼”. Note: Check fluid to prevent a dry reservoir
and ingesting air into the lines.
- Repeat the clamp/unclamp procedure until each piston is near the stroke
limit, it should begin leaking some fluid around the piston seal(s).
- Repeat steps 1) thru 8) for each caliper assembly to be serviced and before
you follow step 10).
- Remove the caliper body from the hose (Protect surfaces from brake fluid
spills) and suspend the hoses as high as possible to prevent fluid spillage. Separate caliper
halves by removing previous fasteners that were loosened.
- The pistons should be easily twisted from their bores using suitable means.
NOTE: Protect work area and surfaces from brake fluid spillage by using a large pan below the
parts during the above separation of pistons.
- Using hot soapy water as a cleaner [will not work with DOT 5], clean any
remaining brake fluid from the caliper body parts to prevent destruction of the surface paint.
Clean the body parts in preparation for reassembly. Pay particular attention to the inside of
the piston seal groove. Use 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper to lightly restore the piston bore
surface without removing base metal. Wash the caliper body inside and out once again to remove
remaining grime and blow it completely dry with 30psi dry compressed air.
Reassemble using good seal components, cleaned piston bores, clean seal
grooves and pistons.
NOTE: Do not use any lubricants other than the brake fluid to coat parts
during installation of pistons. All rubber parts should be cleaned before installation.
DOT 5 brake fluid will attack silicone rubber parts.
Never mix DOT 5 fluid with any other fluid.
Restorations
Because of popular demand, Pistol Pete will begin restoration services for the GL1000. Click here for the current unit and its progress.
Pistol Pete is now offering complete restoration services and with 29 years
experience on GL1000 GoldWing's, we can transform your current GL into the
masterpiece of your dreams
You can supply the Goldwing for restoration or you can chose from one of the many
GL's that we have
in stock. Our restoration service's include full and complete "frame-off" with all
aspects of the GL1000 to be returned to near "Show room" condition. Please visit the
restorations page to see pictures of some
recent restorations.
Gauge Restoration
Pistol Pete's is now offering professional Gauge restoration services for the GL1000 from 1975 to 1979. Pistol Pete can transform your GL1000 gauges to look like new. Other Restoration service companies for gauge work will charge up to $200.00 or more for each gauge to be restored.
#Pistol Pete's price for a basic disassembly, cleaning, oiling, restoring the faded "tick" marks, restoring the tachometer "redline", reassembly and full testing is $95.00 for each tachometer or speedometer when sent separately.
#Each small gauge when sent separately, is base priced at $45.00 each and includes disassembly, cleaning, restoring faded "tick" marks, testing and reassembly.
#Replacing the faces of the 1975 tachometer or speedometer is $20.00 each additional. Currently we do not offer replacement faces for the remainder of the GL1000 gauges. Restoration of exterior surface paint is $40.00 per gauge.
Pistol Pete's 2010 Gauge Special
$235.00 for a set of three 1975 GL1000 gauges (Speedo, Tach and Fuel) and includes new faces for the speedo and tach.
$205.00 for a set of three 1975/1976/1977 gauges (Speedo, Tach and Fuel) excluding face replacements.
$280.00 for a set of five 1978/1979 gauges (Speedo, Tach, Voltmeter, Fuel and Temp) excluding face replacements.

The gauges above are typical of a pair removed from a 1975 GL1000. Compare them with the ones below that are typical of Pistol Pete's Restorative process.

Email Pistol Pete for shipping address and shipping instructions.
Note: Prices exclude repair costs, exterior paint, parts, shipping, packaging, insurance and/or loss during shipment.
Free or reduced priced merchandise offers from Pistol Pete's Services are intended for customers who participate during the offer period. Goods and services included in the offer are not for sale separately and will not be sent during the offer unless requested by the customer in the initial request for carburetor work. Offers are limited to quantities on hand during the offer period. Shipping of goods and services in an offer may be separately charged unless stated that it is included in the offer.
Gauge removal
Below is the recommended gauge removal guideline for all GL1000 Speedometers and Tachometers referring to the drawing below. (Scroll down for small gauge removal)
NOTE: Removal of the headlight assembly is recommended before any attempt to remove the gauges. Also remove the ignition key from the ignition switch in the "off" position and disconnect both gauge drive cables at the gauge.
1) Remove the four oval head screws from the Instrument Cover and carefully pull the cover up and away from the instrument loom below.
2) Remove the two oval head screws from the lower cover and carefully remove the cover. Note the positions of the connectors so that they can be placed back into the cover at assembly.
3) Carefully lift but do not completely remove the Main Pilot Loom from the Main Bracket.
4) Remove the two Chrome plated oval head screws from the bottom of Tach Chrome Ring and the Speedo Chrome Ring.
5) Lift the Tach out of the Chrome Ring enough to locate the Wire Loom connections at the Main Wire Loom (75/76/77 Tachs will have additional wires for the Temp gauge that also are attached to the Main Wire Loom.)
6) Disconnect all of the Tach Loom and Temp wires from the Main Loom and carefully fish the wires out of the Main Bracket and Chrome Ring while holding the Tachometer firmly.
7) After the Tach is removed, place it right side up onto a clean soft surface.
NOTE: Never allow the removed Tachometer or Speedometer to be turned face down. Prolonged periods in this position can permanently damage the instrument(s).
8) Follow the same technique for the Speedo removal as in 5), 6) and 7)
9) Carefully remove the two nuts that attach the Instrument Bracket on the Tach and remove the Clips and Bracket assembly including the small ferrules inside the rubber mounts. Be sure to place all parts in a secure container such as a marked plastic bag, for reassembly when the gauges are returned.
10) With a gentle twisting motion carefully remove the Light Wire Loom from the back of the Tachometer. NOTE: Do not attempt to remove the Temp wires as they are permanently attached to the gauge.
11) Follow the same technique for the removal and storage of the parts for the Speedometer.
12) You are now ready to package the instruments for shipping to Pistol Pete's Services.
NOTE: The Speedometer and Tachometers must be shipped bare without the light Wire Looms and with all hardware removed.
1975/76 and 77 Fuel Gauge Removal.

1) Remove the key from the ignition switch in the "off" position, open the Top Shelter and locate the wire lugs of the Loom connected to the bottom of the Fuel Gauge. (Note the wire color and where they are attached)
2) Remove the two nuts and washers that fasten the terminal studs to the Gauge with a 7mm wrench.
3) Carefully pull the Fuel Gauge out of the hole until the light wire can be easily removed from the gauge bottom. Remove the two nuts and wire lugs from the terminal studs. NOTE: This may require bending the loom wire clips on the shelter frame to allow the loom wire to extend more freely.
4) Remove the rubber Seal Ring from the Gauge and store all attachment parts in a suitable container such as a marked plastic bag.
5) Wrap the Temp Gauge in 4 to 5 layers of small bubble wrap to package for shipment. See "Shipping the Gauges" below.
1978/1979 Small Gauge Removal

1) Remove key from the ignition switch in the "off" position and open the Top Shelter.
2) Open both Side Shelter Covers and locate the four Mount Bolts to the Gauge Mount housing.
3) Remove the bolts with a 10mm wrench and the Wire Clip.
4) Lift up and rotate the Gauge Mount housing to the left so that the undersides of the Gauges are exposed.
5) Using a 7mm wrench, remove the two nuts, lock washers and flat washers only from the bottom of the Voltmeter on the terminal studs.
6) Rotate the Gauge Mount assembly back up right and pull the Voltmeter out of the hole until the light wire can be easily removed. Note the wire color and wire lug location as attached to the gauge. Remove the two nuts and each of the wire lugs from the terminal posts. Do not use excessive force when removing the light wire from the gauge socket to prevent damage.
7) Remove the Rubber seal Ring from the gauge and place the gauge safely onto a soft surface in preparation for packaging. Place all removed gauge attachment items in a suitable container such as a plastic bag for safe keeping.
8) For the Fuel Gauge and the Temp Gauge follow steps 4) through 7) for each individual gauge.
9) Wrap each gauge individually with 3 to 5 layers of small bubble wrap and follow the "Shipping the Gauges" instructions below.
Shipping the Gauges
It is very important that the Speedometer and Tachometer Gauges are shipped and maintained in an up right position as much as possible during transit. Therefore, each gauge should be wrapped in four to six layers of small bubble wrap and placed right side up (face up) inside a narrow depth carton approximately 12" to 14" long x 10" to 12" wide and 5" to 6" deep. If small gauges are shipped with the larger gauges, the container should be at least the longer and the wider of these dimensions with extra packing to assure that all separated gauges arrive safely. The container must be marked "Fragile" on all or most sides and prominently marked with "This side up" so that the Speedo and Tach are not inverted during shipment.
NOTE: DO NOT USE STYROFOAM "POPCORN" AS A PACKING MEDIA. It can crumble and get inside the gauge requiring additional work to clean.
Appraisal and Repair
We also offer appraisal and repair services for most Honda motorcycles.
Intellectual data used on this site is the sole property of
Pistol Pete's Services and must not be used in part or in whole without written permission of
Pistol Pete.
Any service procedure indicated above may involve personal
risks to person or property. Whether the stated process is used entirely or in part, the
individual attempting the process should follow safe work practices including but not limited
to, safety glasses, proper
apparel, proper tools and knowledge.