Carburetor Cleaning and Repairs

Pistol Pete offers expert cleaning and repair services for your GL1000 and GL1100 carburetors. We have rebuilt nearly 200 Goldwing carburetor sets and we maintain a stock of parts just in case your set requires any replacement item. Our customers can expect to receive a perfectly rebuilt carburetor set that is as good as or better than OEM new from the factory.

Why pay more and get less than the best rebuild possible? Most "Experts" and Honda Dealerships (if you can find one who will rebuild them) will charge as much as $700.00. Here at Pistol Pete's Services, we are not satisfied with second best and the carb set will not leave our shop unless it is a perfectly rebuilt set. Pistol Pete's turn around time is usually less than 3 business days and never more than 5 business days. We feel that no one who offers GL1000 or GL1100 carburetor rebuilding is able to match our expertise.

 

Pricing Effective for 2010

*Priced at $425.00 for the 75 thru 79 GL1000 carburetor set including new throttleshaft seal replacements and 75 thru 77 off idle fix and the 77 jet needle fix recommended by Randakks.

*Priced at $485.00 for the 80 thru 83 GL1100 carburetor set including new throttleshaft seals.

*Prices are based on the time to clean a moderately dirty set, clean and clear all porting and jetting, installation of Randakk's component parts (as required), installation of 5 new vacuum hoses (75-79), 1 new fuel hose, installation of six new throttle shaft seals, plus off idle fixes and jet needle fix (where applicable), Pistol Pete's proprietary modification for smooth idling, complete reassembly, engine synchronizing/balancing to 1/2" hg and installation instructions.


*Note: Prices do not include additional scrub cleaning of extraordinary deposits of internal grime, additional repair work, additional parts replacement or requested parts, new jetting, other special modifications or polishing and shipping/packaging. Prices subject to change without notice. Technical Notice: Pistol Pete's carburetor service includes synchronizing/balancing to within 1/2" hg. on a test engine that is mechanically and operationally sound and cylinder compression differentials well within OEM service limits. Installation onto your engine may require "touch up" synchronizing for optimal performance.
**Free, Special or reduced priced offers from Pistol Pete's Services are intended for customers who participate during the offer period. Goods and services included in the offer are not for sale separately and will not be included during the offer unless requested by the customer in the initial request for carburetor work. Offers are limited to quantities on hand during the offer period. Shipping of goods and services in an offer may be separately charged unless stated that it is included in the offer.
NOTE: International customers requesting shipping by USPSwill incure an additional $40.00US processing/packaging fee.

 

GL1000

GL1100

 

Carburetor Removal for GL1000

It is relatively easy to remove the carburetors from a GL1000. The steps below will allow the process to be accomplished without potential damage to the carb set or the motorcycle.

WARNING: Gasoline is very flammable! Please exercise due caution when the potential exists for spillage.

NOTE: Each carburetor corresponds to its respective cylinder number. #1 is front right, #2 is front left, #3 is rear right and #4 is rear left. (Viewed while seated and facing to the front)

1) Shut off fuel.
2) Remove spark plug caps from the left side spark plugs (#2 - #4) and carefully remove the wires from the carb stay clips on both sides.
3) Loosen choke cable from the choke bracket just behind #3 carb intake.
4) Remove the false tank completely. With assistance, you may be able to remove the entire assembly without removing the individual cover sections.
NOTE: There are five fasteners that secure the shell frame to the motorcycle. Two each side and one top front.
Be sure to disconnect the overflow hose from the neck of the radiator before removing the false tank assembly, also remove the fuel drain hose from the shelter frame.
5) Remove the air filter cover, air filter and filter box completely from the carbs.
NOTE: Be sure to remove hoses from the filter box.
6) Remove the cap, spring and diaphragm only from the air "cut off" valve located on the top front of the carb rack.
7) Remove the choke cable and the throttle cables from the carburetor control rotor unit.
8) Remove the screws only from the #1 and #3 (right side) vacuum caps.
9) Remove the 8 bolts and washers that hold the carb intakes to the cylinder heads.
10) Remove the carb fuel line from the pump only (be careful not to injure the fuel pump line nipple).
11) Using a magic marker, mark the number 1 and number 3 on the respective carb caps.
12) Remove the right side chrome carb stay brace.
NOTE: This step is un-necessary if the brace does not have the cuff guard to the rear.
13) Lift the carb set and move it out towards the #2 - #4 side of the engine until the #1 - #3 carb caps can be removed. Leave springs and pistons on their respective  carb bodies.
14) After the caps are removed the set can be maneuvered out of the frame. Be  careful that the #2 & #4 plug wires do not snag as the set is removed.
15) Set the carb unit over a suitable fuel catch pan and carefully remove the float bowl drain plugs to drain the fuel.
NOTE: If the drain plugs will not easily come out, magic mark the vacuum pistons of #1, #3, the vacuum caps of #2 and #4 and remove them. Mark the #2 piston as well as the #4 piston and remove them with all of the springs.
16) Invert whole carburetor set over the catch pan to drain the fuel.
17) Replace the drain plugs, vacuum pistons, springs and vacuum caps in their proper positions. Reinstall the air cut cap, spring and diaphragm.
NOTE: The carb set should be as pictured above before packaging.
18) Be sure that all screws are snug, wrap the set in several layers of bubble wrap and package them carefully into a suitable carton to prevent shipping damage.
NOTE: It will be helpful if the carb set is placed inside a plastic bag or similar to prevent shipping material from entering the porting. Please do not ship the set using "pop-corn foam" without over wrapping the set completely.
19) Ship them to us using a suitable carrier such as USPS, UPS, FedEx Gnd, etc.

 

 

Carburetor Removal for GL1100

Removal of the carburetors from the GL1100 is very similar to the GL1000 if removed from the Standard Model. Suggested removal instructions below are for the Interstate and Aspencade Models. If you have a Standard Model, some items listed will be unnecessary.
NOTE: Aftermarket items installed on your GL1100 may impede the removal of the carburetors as suggested below. The person removing them should determine this to facilitate removal.

1) Shut off fuel and open the fuel fill door of the shelter. Remove the tool tray and the fuel filler cap.

WARNING: Gasoline is very flammable! Please exercise due caution when the potential exists for spillage or exposure of ignition sources near fuel vapor.

2) Remove spark plug caps from the left side spark plugs (#2 - #4) and carefully remove the wires from the carb stay clips on both sides.
3) Loosen choke cable from the choke bracket just behind #3 carb intake.
4) If possible, remove the choke cable bracket from the carburetor set. NOTE: This may be difficult as the screw is located on the carburetor plenum and will require a long shank #2 heavy duty phillips screw driver.
5) Remove the left and right lower fairing pieces by extracting the three attaching screws and collars from each one. NOTE: Be sure not to lose the collars to avoid crushing the plastic at assembly.
6) Disconnect the wire harness at the plastic connector located on the left/inside of the main fairing.
7) Remove the two front fastener nuts and washers completely from the fairing that attach it to the mount bracket.
8) Loosen the two remaining fastener nuts and washers but do not remove them until the front of the fairing is supported by a helper. NOTE: The fairing is front heavy and may move downward without warning.
9) With help, carefully lift slightly and remove the fairing towards the front of the bike.
10) Remove both of the sheet metal heat shrouds from the rear of each side of the fairing mount by removing the three screws from each one.
11) Remove the seat and remove both chrome carburetor stay brackets.
12) Remove the fasteners (usually 4) from the false fuel tank and carefully remove it. With assistance, you should be able to spread it slightly and lift it off from the components below.
13) Detach the air box components, remove the filter and remove the air box from the carburetor plenum. Remove the air chamber seal from the plenum.
14) Remove the screws and washers only from the # 1 and # 3 vacuum caps. Magic mark the caps with their position number. #1 is front right, #3 is rear right.
15) Remove the 8 bolts and washers that hold the carb intakes to the cylinder heads.
16) Remove the carb fuel line from the pump only (be careful not to injure the fuel pump line nipple).
17) Loosen the four fasteners that hold the radiator to the frame. This must be enough (about 10 mm) so that the plenum chamber of the carb set can be removed past the fan motor.
18) Lift the carb set slightly and move it out towards the #2 - #4 side of the engine until the # 1 and # 3 carb caps can be removed. Leave springs and pistons on their respective  carb bodies.
19) After the caps are removed the set can be maneuvered out of the frame. Be  careful that the #2 & #4 plug wires do not snag as the set is removed. NOTE: It may be necessary to bend the choke bracket slightly downward to make removal of the set easier. An alternative would be to loosen the plenum screw that holds the choke bracket.
20) Set the carb unit over a suitable fuel catch pan and carefully remove the float bowl drain plugs to drain the fuel.
NOTE: If the drain plugs will not easily come out, magic mark the remaining vacuum pistons while in their respective carb positions and remove them and all four of the springs and pistons.
21) Invert whole carburetor set over the catch pan to drain the fuel.

WARNING: Gasoline is very flammable! Please exercise due caution when the potential exists for spillage or exposure of ignition sources near fuel vapor.

22) Replace the drain plugs, vacuum pistons, springs and vacuum caps in their proper positions.
NOTE: The carb set should be as pictured above before packaging.
23) Be sure that all screws are snug, wrap the set in several layers of bubble wrap and package them carefully into a suitable carton to prevent shipping damage.
NOTE: It will be helpful if the carb set is placed inside a plastic bag or similar to prevent shipping material from entering the porting. Please do not ship the set using "pop-corn foam" without over wrapping the set completely.
24) Ship them to us using a suitable carrier such as USPS, UPS, FedEx Gnd, etc.

 

 

Caliper Pistons

Pistol Pete has discontinued offering the caliper pistons because of diminished demand. The process to heat treat the pistons is expensive and this process is no longer competitive in the current market place.

We apologize for any inconvenience.


Removal of pistons from the caliper

NOTE: This method can be used if the caliper pistons are sticking but the remainder of the system is functional.

  1. Loosen all fasteners that join the caliper body halves together and as well as the brake line fitting terminating at the caliper body. All should be loose just enough to ease removal later at disassembly but not enough to leak fluid.
  2. If accessible, remove all parts that hold the inspection cover and/or pad support fasteners.
  3. Remove the caliper body from the motorcycle with the hose attached. This may require the wheel assembly to be removed.
  4. Remove the brake pads, piston boots and clips.
  5. Open the master cylinder reservoir and top up the fluid using the proper type.
  6. If the caliper body has more than one piston, clamp all but one piston in its current position using a small "C" clamp(s) or suitable.
  7. Depress or squeeze the brake lever until the unclamped piston moves out about ¼”. Then change positions with the "C" clamp on each piston until all have been pushed out about ¼”. Note: Check fluid to prevent a dry reservoir and ingesting air into the lines.
  8. Repeat the clamp/unclamp procedure until each piston is near the stroke limit, it should begin leaking some fluid around the piston seal(s).
  9. Repeat steps 1) thru 8) for each caliper assembly to be serviced and before you follow step 10).
  10. Remove the caliper body from the hose (Protect surfaces from brake fluid spills) and suspend the hoses as high as possible to prevent fluid spillage. Separate caliper halves by removing previous fasteners that were loosened.
  11. The pistons should be easily twisted from their bores using suitable means. NOTE: Protect work area and surfaces from brake fluid spillage by using a large pan below the parts during the above separation of pistons.
  12. Using hot soapy water as a cleaner [will not work with DOT 5], clean any remaining brake fluid from the caliper body parts to prevent destruction of the surface paint. Clean the body parts in preparation for reassembly. Pay particular attention to the inside of the piston seal groove. Use 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper to lightly restore the piston bore surface without removing base metal. Wash the caliper body inside and out once again to remove remaining grime and blow it completely dry with 30psi dry compressed air.

Reassemble using good seal components, cleaned piston bores, clean seal grooves and pistons.

NOTE: Do not use any lubricants other than the brake fluid to coat parts during installation of pistons. All rubber parts should be cleaned before installation.

DOT 5 brake fluid will attack silicone rubber parts.

Never mix DOT 5 fluid with any other fluid.

 

 

Restorations

Because of popular demand, Pistol Pete will begin restoration services for the GL1000. Click here for the current unit and its progress.

Pistol Pete is now offering complete restoration services and with 29 years experience on GL1000 GoldWing's, we can transform your current GL into the masterpiece of your dreams You can supply the Goldwing for restoration or you can chose from one of the many GL's that we have in stock. Our restoration service's include full and complete "frame-off" with all aspects of the GL1000 to be returned to near "Show room" condition. Please visit the restorations page to see pictures of some recent restorations.

 

Gauge Restoration

Pistol Pete's is now offering professional Gauge restoration services for the GL1000 from 1975 to 1979. Pistol Pete can transform your GL1000 gauges to look like new. Other Restoration service companies for gauge work will charge up to $200.00 or more for each gauge to be restored.

#Pistol Pete's price for a basic disassembly, cleaning, oiling, restoring the faded "tick" marks, restoring the tachometer "redline", reassembly and full testing is $95.00 for each tachometer or speedometer when sent separately.
#Each small gauge when sent separately, is base priced at $45.00 each and includes disassembly, cleaning, restoring faded "tick" marks, testing and reassembly.
#Replacing the faces of the 1975 tachometer or speedometer is $20.00 each additional. Currently we do not offer replacement faces for the remainder of the GL1000 gauges. Restoration of exterior surface paint is $40.00 per gauge.

Pistol Pete's 2010 Gauge Special

$235.00 for a set of three 1975 GL1000 gauges (Speedo, Tach and Fuel) and includes new faces for the speedo and tach.

$205.00 for a set of three 1975/1976/1977 gauges (Speedo, Tach and Fuel) excluding face replacements.

$280.00 for a set of five 1978/1979 gauges (Speedo, Tach, Voltmeter, Fuel and Temp) excluding face replacements.

 


The gauges above are typical of a pair removed from a 1975 GL1000. Compare them with the ones below that are typical of Pistol Pete's Restorative process.


Email Pistol Pete for shipping address and shipping instructions.

 

Note: Prices exclude repair costs, exterior paint, parts, shipping, packaging, insurance and/or loss during shipment.
Free or reduced priced merchandise offers from Pistol Pete's Services are intended for customers who participate during the offer period. Goods and services included in the offer are not for sale separately and will not be sent during the offer unless requested by the customer in the initial request for carburetor work. Offers are limited to quantities on hand during the offer period. Shipping of goods and services in an offer may be separately charged unless stated that it is included in the offer.

 

Gauge removal

Below is the recommended gauge removal guideline for all GL1000 Speedometers and Tachometers referring to the drawing below. (Scroll down for small gauge removal)

NOTE: Removal of the headlight assembly is recommended before any attempt to remove the gauges. Also remove the ignition key from the ignition switch in the "off" position and disconnect both gauge drive cables at the gauge.

1) Remove the four oval head screws from the Instrument Cover and carefully pull the cover up and away from the instrument loom below.

2) Remove the two oval head screws from the lower cover and carefully remove the cover. Note the positions of the connectors so that they can be placed back into the cover at assembly.

3) Carefully lift but do not completely remove the Main Pilot Loom from the Main Bracket.

4) Remove the two Chrome plated oval head screws from the bottom of Tach Chrome Ring and the Speedo Chrome Ring.

5) Lift the Tach out of the Chrome Ring enough to locate the Wire Loom connections at the Main Wire Loom (75/76/77 Tachs will have additional wires for the Temp gauge that also are attached to the Main Wire Loom.)

6) Disconnect all of the Tach Loom and Temp wires from the Main Loom and carefully fish the wires out of the Main Bracket and Chrome Ring while holding the Tachometer firmly.

7) After the Tach is removed, place it right side up onto a clean soft surface.
NOTE: Never allow the removed Tachometer or Speedometer to be turned face down. Prolonged periods in this position can permanently damage the instrument(s).

8) Follow the same technique for the Speedo removal as in 5), 6) and 7)

9) Carefully remove the two nuts that attach the Instrument Bracket on the Tach and remove the Clips and Bracket assembly including the small ferrules inside the rubber mounts. Be sure to place all parts in a secure container such as a marked plastic bag, for reassembly when the gauges are returned.

10) With a gentle twisting motion carefully remove the Light Wire Loom from the back of the Tachometer. NOTE: Do not attempt to remove the Temp wires as they are permanently attached to the gauge.

11) Follow the same technique for the removal and storage of the parts for the Speedometer.

12) You are now ready to package the instruments for shipping to Pistol Pete's Services.

NOTE: The Speedometer and Tachometers must be shipped bare without the light Wire Looms and with all hardware removed.

 

 

1975/76 and 77 Fuel Gauge Removal.

1) Remove the key from the ignition switch in the "off" position, open the Top Shelter and locate the wire lugs of the Loom connected to the bottom of the Fuel Gauge. (Note the wire color and where they are attached)

2) Remove the two nuts and washers that fasten the terminal studs to the Gauge with a 7mm wrench.

3) Carefully pull the Fuel Gauge out of the hole until the light wire can be easily removed from the gauge bottom. Remove the two nuts and wire lugs from the terminal studs. NOTE: This may require bending the loom wire clips on the shelter frame to allow the loom wire to extend more freely.

4) Remove the rubber Seal Ring from the Gauge and store all attachment parts in a suitable container such as a marked plastic bag.

5) Wrap the Temp Gauge in 4 to 5 layers of small bubble wrap to package for shipment. See "Shipping the Gauges" below.

 

 

 

1978/1979 Small Gauge Removal

1) Remove key from the ignition switch in the "off" position and open the Top Shelter.

2) Open both Side Shelter Covers and locate the four Mount Bolts to the Gauge Mount housing.

3) Remove the bolts with a 10mm wrench and the Wire Clip.

4) Lift up and rotate the Gauge Mount housing to the left so that the undersides of the Gauges are exposed.

5) Using a 7mm wrench, remove the two nuts, lock washers and flat washers only from the bottom of the Voltmeter on the terminal studs.

6) Rotate the Gauge Mount assembly back up right and pull the Voltmeter out of the hole until the light wire can be easily removed. Note the wire color and wire lug location as attached to the gauge. Remove the two nuts and each of the wire lugs from the terminal posts. Do not use excessive force when removing the light wire from the gauge socket to prevent damage.

7) Remove the Rubber seal Ring from the gauge and place the gauge safely onto a soft surface in preparation for packaging. Place all removed gauge attachment items in a suitable container such as a plastic bag for safe keeping.

8) For the Fuel Gauge and the Temp Gauge follow steps 4) through 7) for each individual gauge.

9) Wrap each gauge individually with 3 to 5 layers of small bubble wrap and follow the "Shipping the Gauges" instructions below.

 

 

 

Shipping the Gauges

It is very important that the Speedometer and Tachometer Gauges are shipped and maintained in an up right position as much as possible during transit. Therefore, each gauge should be wrapped in four to six layers of small bubble wrap and placed right side up (face up) inside a narrow depth carton approximately 12" to 14" long x 10" to 12" wide and 5" to 6" deep. If small gauges are shipped with the larger gauges, the container should be at least the longer and the wider of these dimensions with extra packing to assure that all separated gauges arrive safely. The container must be marked "Fragile" on all or most sides and prominently marked with "This side up" so that the Speedo and Tach are not inverted during shipment.

NOTE: DO NOT USE STYROFOAM "POPCORN" AS A PACKING MEDIA. It can crumble and get inside the gauge requiring additional work to clean.

 

Appraisal and Repair

We also offer appraisal and repair services for most Honda motorcycles.

 

Intellectual data used on this site is the sole property of Pistol Pete's Services and must not be used in part or in whole without written permission of Pistol Pete.

Any service procedure indicated above may involve personal risks to person or property. Whether the stated process is used entirely or in part, the individual attempting the process should follow safe work practices including but not limited to, safety glasses, proper apparel, proper tools and knowledge.


 

Thinking about doing the carb rebuild yourself?

The GL1000 and GL1100 carburetors are precision units that require more than an "I can do this" attitude. Click here for 10 reasons to have Pistol Pete's rebuild your set to assure that it will perform as well as or better than OEM.